Anthurium is an indoor plant prized for its ease of maintenance and its brightly colored inflorescences with elegant and exotic beauty. Well-fed and illuminated, it blooms all year long!
Presentation of the Anthurium
The Anthurium or Anthurium, sometimes called pink flamingo or a fire tongue, is part of the Araceae family, which also includes arum, dieffenbachia, or colocasia. Like the other members of this botanical family, it has a particular inflorescence that consists of a thin, erect, or curved spadix, covered with small discrete flowers and surrounded by a broad, waxy, and bright bract. This bract is called space. It can be extended or concave, but not folded into a bugle like that of its cousin, the arum.
The beauty of the Anthurium lies mainly in its inflorescences of bright colors, mostly bright red, but also light pink, orange or white, very long decorative, up to 10 weeks each. Anthurium grown in good condition blooms almost all year long, even if the full flowering period is usually during the summer. Anthurium’s other important decorative asset is its lush, dark green heart-shaped foliage, which is a paradise for colorful swords. The leaves develop with moderate to slow growth from a low-rooted rhizomatous strain.
Anthurium’s South American and tropical origins make it grow in our latitudes as an indoor plant to preserve the cold. It is suitable for small spaces with its modest dimensions, from 40 to 80 cm in all directions, depending on the species.
Species and varieties of anthuriums
If the genus Anthurium has several hundred species of epiphytes (that grow without contact with the soil and live on another plant without parasitizing it), we generally cultivate only three species in our interiors (house, apartment, greenhouse or veranda).
Anthurium andraeanum is the most common species. It culminates between 40 and 60 cm depending on the variety. It has large and leathery leaves with long petioles and large ribbed and varnished sparks with erect spadix. There are different very floriferous cultivars: ‘Red Champion’ and ‘Dakota’ with bright red spots, ‘Pink Champion’ and ‘Pandola’ with light pink to sweet pink shells, very well dyed pale green at the base, ‘White Champion ‘in white bloom …
Anthurium scherzerianum is distinguished from the species Anthurium andreanum by its greater stature (up to 80 cm tall), less bright foliage, and colorful potatoes with curious spirals of spiral corkscrews. The colors of this Anthurium also vary from bright red to white and orange. This species is the most resistant to cold.
Anthurium crystallinum is appreciated for its broad dark emerald green foliage, with a beautifully glazed heart, but especially marked by long vertical petioles and large cream white veins, pink on the reverse. Its summer bloom in long light brown spadix is insignificant.
Plant and transplant anthuriums
- s cultivation of anthuriums is mainly carried out in pots.
- Enjoy a bright situation, but constant and especially without the direct sun (behind a veiled window). Enjoy a humid atmosphere and fear that cold currents will dry out.
- Offer a temperature between 18 and 21 ° C throughout the year. Tolerates temperatures up to 14 ° C for short periods. In late winter, a few weeks in a cool room in the house (16-17 ° C) stimulate flowering.
- In the spring, every two years, transplant the Anthurium into a pot slightly larger than the original pot and imperatively drilled with drainage holes. Don’t be too wide! Use light and draining soil: a mixture of equal parts of special potting soil and potting soil for orchids or peat is ideal. Place a 2 to 3 cm drainage layer of clay balls at the bottom of the pot. Do not bury the heart of the plant. The roots should slightly exceed. Place moss or sphagnum between them, so they don’t dry out.
Tip: Be careful when driving Anthurium, your sap itches!
Cultivation and maintenance of anthuriums
- During the growth period (March to October), keep the substrate fresh watering regularly, 2 to 3 times per week, depending on the size of the plant and its pot. There is no excess water because the roots could rot. Add a special fertilizer for flowering plants twice a month during the same period.
- You can leave the plant during the beautiful season with shaded exposure and preserved drafts. During the rest of the vegetation, limit the irrigation of the Anthurium to one per week or less. It is necessary for the substrate to dry slightly on the surface between two water inlets. It is not necessary to fertilize.
- Spray foliage regularly throughout the year to increase moisture and stimulate flowering. Clean the sheets with a damp sponge to maintain their shine and allow gas exchange.
The size of the Anthurium is reduced to suppress faded inflorescences as soon as their stems are dry to favor the appearance of new shells.
Diseases and parasites of the Anthurium
- The Anthurium can be parasitized by red spiders (mites) that weave their fine canvases on the petioles and the backs of the leaves, causing small yellow spots under the action of their bites. They are favored by a dry atmosphere that also causes the yellowing of the leaves.
- Aphids also sometimes parasitize the foliage, giving it a sticky appearance because of the molasses they reject. Another enemy of the Anthurium is the cochineal visible to the cotton clusters on the leaves. It is removed by cleaning the leaves with soapy water or with a rapeseed oil spray if the soap is not enough.
- Brown spots on the leaves of the Anthurium are signs of fungal diseases.
- Finally, a direct sunburn causes the leaves to turn pale, while a cold click makes them black.